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On a windy day in August, you can find a carnival on a blustery bluff where the island meets the sea. With delicious hot dogs and simmering prawns, even lingering mist can’t dampen these scents. At the crest of the Ferris wheel, gaze out over the open sea, where there’s only blue, and the other way, only verdure. The tinkling sound of music lingers behind you like an auditory shadow, until at a bend in the path above the town of Bray, you’ll climb higher and higher, squeezing behind stones and wondering if the mountain above will fall on top of you to allay its steepness. Looking back, you’ll notice a welcoming town, but ahead, amid the green, there’s adventure and the next village to investigate: onward!

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